If you want to get to know your Peg you are going to have to become good at getting the fuel tank off and on. 
It's not hard and you can do it in less than 30 minutes off and on if you know what to do. I will run you through it.

1 - Remove the 4 Allen bolts which hold the dash, windscreen and headlight to the scaffolding below it. suspend this from the roof of your garage or a wing mirror. You don't want to let this dangle as the connector to the dash needs to be looked after as it is fragile.

2 - Remove the two side trim diamonds which stretch from close to the battery to below the fuel tank. two Allen bolts each.

3 - Before you go any further, remove the fuel pipe from the tank. Never try to remove the fuel tank with the fuel pipe connected as this always ends in a world of pain (LINK). Usually, removal involves pinching the lugs of the grey connector and wiggling the pipe backwards. however as the years go by, lugs fall off etc and other methods are necessary (LINK). Also, disconnect the fuel pump electrical connectors in close proximity to the fuel pipe.

5 - You may find that the fuel tank is now dripping fuel from the connector. you may need to plug this.this may help (Link). Some bikes leak some don't, I'm not sure if this is a fault or not.

4 - remove RHS scaffolding for the headlight and dash assembly. remove screws to free wiring loom.

5 - remove fuel tank top box. 3 small Allen screws into the tank and two lower down.  unplug tank cover release servo and holding bolts os it comes away with top box.remove seal around filler cap and pull up fuel overflow pipe so you can get it to reconnect when replacing it.

6 - Remove top small Allen screw holding tank near oil filler. remove two with 10mm nub behind on the flanks. Remove tank

Replacement

1 - Before you do anything is everything in the right place? especially the wiring loom. This should be well clear of the tank.

2 - give the fuel tank runoff pipe a good tug up because you won't be able to reach it after the tank goes on.

3 - Offer up the tank and make sure it is not catching anything. get the headlight wiring loom in the correct position now, otherwise, you will have to take it all off again. it should be over the tank hanger, not under it.

4 - you will find that the flank bolts are 3 to 5 mm out at the rear of the tank but note the rubber guide holders. These are in place to ensure the tank is pulled forward by the fasteners and does not spend its life annoying you with rattling. So be grateful now and get a fully square Allen key (not ball one) put it in the bolt and force it forward to the hole in which it lives. it's not that hard really as long as you know it is fine to bully it about a bit.

5 - It can be a little tricky to get the wiring loom sat right in the scaffolding, but a little push and shove gets it there.

6 - Replace all fastners. That wasn't too hard was is. Now, where did I put that little screwdriver........?